ITALY – Sun, cheese, gelato and vines.

This country oozes all things GOOD when it comes to people, food, countryside, architecture and culture. Simply put “I felt at home”.

We entered Italy from the French side following the original medieval wine merchant route used for transporting great Italian wines through to the French. We descended from the snow covered Alps down a fantastic pass into our first Italian town La Thuile (a popular ski region close to Aosta) and our first cultural event – a Goat Face-off competition, we stopped to check out the goings on and was told all about the process. It’s a passionate locking of horns and a persuasive push until one goat turns away from the challenger. which brings admiration and awards to the winners of different categories, a truly reflective introduction to Italian people and broader culture – passion and pleasure without pain.

From there we drove into the countryside of central Italy passing through the rice paddy fields of the Po Valley. All quite strange to see paddy fields in Italy, but risotto rice (Arborio rice) has to be grown somewhere I suppose. From Turin through to the seaside town of Genoa. Then on to Pisa to see the leaning tower that defies gravity. We passed a series of protected nature reserves, Italy is full of them which makes the country seem spacious and the air sweeter. Magnificent indigenous bush/forests full of birdlife and which were quite different to anything we had seen thus far.

Italians are a very friendly bunch and whilst ‘Wild-camping’ is not allowed, it is tolerated providing you keep to a ‘leave-no-trace’ policy. We camped in some of our most beautiful spots thus far and met some kind and inquisitive people. What really made an impression was the Italians love of FAMILY, hell its expected that you will live with Mum and Dad till the age of 30. Everyone within the family is respected, nurtured and celebrated – I may just adopt a family in Umbria if they’ll take me.

We travelled through Tuscany with its quintessential stone villages perched on hilltops and passed endless acres of vines. We camped on an ancient deserted roman pilgrimage route just outside the tiny village of Fonterutoli and treated ourselves to special dinner at Osteria Di Fonterutoli, which is the restaurant owned and operated by the Mazzei family who’s wine estate was founded in 1435. I highly recommend you treat yourself if you are ever in the region. One dish blew us away, the slow cooked ‘Confit Rabbit’. The wines were sublime and they offer vertical tastings. We stopped in Florence which is a jewel in the Italian crown according to most Tuscans. Whilst we were there it was awfully hot and full of tourists but this would never detract from this beautiful city. We also visited Sienna a medieval city with traditional Italian architecture and home to the Gia fountain located in the main square which was built in 1342, after hydraulic construction had led water to the site via underground pipes which brought water to the site from 25 kilometers away. Legend holds that the fountain was met with much joy, thus it was given the name Gaia or joyous. Sienna is a really quaint authentic village with tiny cobbled streets, inviting restaurants, delicious food and heaps to do and see.

Whilst Marie jetted back to SA for a few meetings I took the opportunity to visit the region of Umbria. Now, if you are still reading you just found the sweet-spot. Umbria is not as visited by tourists compared to it’s money-spinning neighbouring areas. Rural and peacefully quiet, as beautiful as Tuscany and relatively undiscovered. If you ever dreamed of buying that little house in Tuscany then look no further, Umbria will not disappoint and at half the price. I spent some time with friends in Perugia, a gorgeous city with a rich history. Founded in 310 BC by the Etruscans, ownership then shifted to the Romans, Byzantines, the Church, French, Austria and finally the Kingdom of Italy. Also known as the University, City every evening the students occupy the main square playing drums, drinking, eating and sharing life – a truly ‘lived-in’ city. Back in 1540 Pope Paul III imposed a new salt tax which led the locals to revolt. Annoyed, the Pope ordered tat a new city be built upon the old, imposing Papal ego and ownership. Years later, the old city (under the newer part of Perugia) has been painstakingly excavated. A quick walk from the lower to the upper sections of the city reveal a labyrinth of original streets, shops and homes. Walking through hundreds of years of history as you go for your morning coffee.

If you are in the Umbria region make sure you stop in at the quaint historical town of Assisi where you will find the most beautiful town filled with churches and you can visit the tomb of St Francis – well worth a visit.

Do visit Venice, Italians all told us not to visit Venice due it being over crowded with tourists, and stating “it’s not Italy or Italian”. Sure, we don’t love to push through hundreds of camera carrying tourists but the sheer beauty of Venice is magical, especially at night. No cars or motorised street transport is allowed on the island, its all waterborne transport including Taxis, Ambulance and Fire services. Gondolas aside, Venice with its unique setting, architecture and food puts it high on our list of unique Italian spots to visit. Aperol Spritz never tasted better than in Venice and they have a tradition of eating these gorgeous little neat cut sandwiches with mouth-watering fillings. If you do plane to get to Venice, rather visit in the shoulder seasons ie June or September/October, less crowded and cheaper. Oh and do include a trip to Murano Island, home of the world famous glass makers, whom were banished from Venice due to fire risk.

We never got all the way down to the sole of the Italian boot, we only planned on getting as far as Sienna and then heading back up. So we missed Rome, Sicily and Naples etc., however, we will be back. The Italians can count on us to be one of those million tourists trampling the streets.

Interesting facts:

Italy originally comprised many states or kingdoms, eventually becoming one nation in 1861.
Flag colours represent Hope (green) / Faith (white) / Charity (Red).
Both Italy and South Africa are ‘Republics’
In Italy, an 18-year old can vote for Parliament and only when you are 25yr can you vote for the Upper house (Senate).
Coastline is 7,600 km long (South Africa = 2,550 km).
Highest mountain is Mont Bianco 4,807m aka ‘Mont Blanc’ which it shares with France (South Africa’s highest is Mt Mafadi 3,450m).
Leaning tower of Pizza should stand for another 200 yrs according to engineers.
There are more than 500 different types of Pasta eaten in Italy.

What we learned:

Family needs the gravitas and nurturing it deserves, no matter what the quarrel.
Friendships are for life, through all adversity.
Work hard and play like its your last day.
You are what you eat – don’t even get me started about the tomatoes.
Marie is an addicted to Italian Gelato (ice-cream) and Caffe’ Crema.

What we liked:

Authentic hard-working people with a high value for ‘Family’.
Ethical, sustainable framing practices.
Italy does not allow GMO seeds, so all the fruit and veg could be great great grandpapa’s original seeds.
Amazing countryside, from bush, forests to some of the world’s best beach experiences.
You are always served snacks when you order a drink at a bar.
Coffee, nowhere in the world do baristas make a macchiato like they do in Italy.
Café al banco (coffee at the bar counter) great coffee and cheaper than sitting down
Gelato like you have never tasted (always ask to taste before you buy or you will miss out on some amazing flavours)
Aperol Spritz & Cicchetti (Sandwiches) a perfect on-the-go snack/lunch – perfectly filled and bite sized. Again, you eat these ‘al banco’ style especially in Venice.